Nina Garcia’s Insider Guide to Marrakech

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Few destinations consistently capture fashion’s imagination quite like Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent put it best when he said, “Before Marrakech, everything was black. This city taught me color.” His meaning becomes clear every time I arrive in Morocco and step off the plane into the North African sunshine—the pink ramparts, the cobalt doorways, the impossible greens of a garden behind an unmarked wall. It’s a feast for the senses, a font of inspiration that truly has to be seen to be believed.

What I love most about Marrakech is the way that it always surprises. Push open an unassuming riad door and find yourself in a courtyard dripping with bougainvillea. Turn a corner in the souk and discover a leatherworker or silversmith whose family has been perfecting their craft for generations. Marrakech rewards curiosity, with a tension between the hidden and the revealed, the ancient and the modern that keeps pulling travelers back—along with design and shopping scenes that are among the most exciting in the world.

So, as you can imagine, it really takes an insider’s point of view to unlock the magic of Marrakech. For this month’s Insider Guide, I called on people to help reveal the city’s best-kept secrets: Emma Lappin, marketing director of the heavenly El Fenn hotel; Robert Wright, design expert and founder of Beni Rugs; and Rosena Charmoy, co-founder of Boutique Souk, the event planning agency that has pulled off some of fashion’s most iconic Moroccan celebrations in recent years. If a trip to Marrakech is in your future, I hope you’re able to make the most of this advice.

BEST TIME TO GO:

Spring and fall find Marrakech at its most lovely—the days are warm and sunny but the desert heat isn’t overwhelming. April and May bring roses and wildflowers to the surrounding countryside, while September and October are particularly pretty, with lingering summer warmth and cool evenings. Winter brings sunny and mild days, crisp nights, and sparser crowds. Summer is intense, but keep in mind this is a city built to withstand the heat—there is a magical scene of swimming pools, shady gardens, and elegant rooftop restaurants where you can wait out the heat in style.

Sleep

nina garcia's insider guide to marrakech

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  • Royal Mansour: Marrakech has a rich and varied scene of riads, residential-feeling hotels often built around a central courtyard. When a splurge is called for, there’s nowhere better than Royal Mansour, built by the king of Morocco as a showcase for the country’s finest craftsmanship. Each accommodation consists of a private riad with its own outdoor spaces and pool, and every detail—from the award-winning restaurants to the heavenly spa to the intricate tile work—feels beautifully considered. Also: If you can extend your time in Morocco, check out Royal Mansour’s sister property, Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay, a wellness-focused hotel in a seaside spa town overlooking the Mediterranean.
  • El Fenn: One of Marrakech’s most beloved boutique hotels, El Fenn is immersed in a colorful, eclectic art collection that gives the property a luxurious bohemian feel—think plush sofas, sweet mint tea served all day long, and Moorish keyhole archways that lead to courtyards filled with olive trees and orange blossoms. It was founded in 2002 by Howell James and Vanessa Branson, the sister of Sir Richard and founder of the Marrakech Biennale, but has since changed ownership in 2025 to the Benabbés-Taarji family as part of the AKAN Collection. The rooftop pool and restaurant are two of the coolest places to people-watch in the city.
  • La Mamounia: Marrakech’s legendary grande dame. Set on 17 acres of gardens just outside the Medina, La Mamounia has welcomed royalty, artists, and Hollywood stars for nearly a century. Come for the history and old-world glamour, but stay for the gardens, the pool, and the exceptional spa facilities. It’s the kind of place that says, “I’ve been coming to Marrakech for years,” even if it’s your first time.

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Dine

nina garcia's insider guide to marrakech

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Breakfast:

  • Pâtisserie Amandine: For a taste of Marrakech’s French-Moroccan roots, stop here for pastries and something sweet. It’s been baking the best croissants in the city since 1997.
  • Blue Ribbon: A favorite for a relaxed Marrakech morning, and something a little more substantial. I love the Bledi Special, a shakshuka-like dish finished with dukkah and chili oil. The coffee is excellent, too.
  • Café Le Studio at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum: A museum coffee shop? Trust me—it’s great. I love how it was inspired by Saint Laurent’s Paris studio. The coffee and breakfast are so good, and it’s convenient if you’re visiting the Yves Saint Laurent Museum next door.

Lunch:

  • Bacha Coffee: Stay with me here: coffee is an experience in Morocco, best enjoyed as a long, leisurely midday meal—and Bacha does a beautiful job. This Marrakech-born brand dates to 1910, and its signature experience involves choosing from an impressive list of locally sourced and roasted coffees, served in elaborate pots. It’s good for a quick refueling, as well as a more substantial tagine for lunch.
  • Naranj: In the middle of the Medina, Naranj is Lebanese cooking at its best. The fattoush with crispy pita and sumac, cheese cigars with kumquat and saffron, and beef shawarma are all unforgettable.
  • Chez Lamine: Unfussy yet authentic, the specialty here is lamb. Try méchoui beldi, slow-roasted in an underground wood-fired oven, or tangia marrakchia, cooked slowly in a clay urn with preserved lemon and spices.

Dinner:

  • Plus61: Robert calls this one “the living room of Marrakech.” Set in Gueliz, it is the gathering place of choice for the city’s creative crowd, who indulge in the Australian-meets-Mediterranean fusion menu designed to be shared.
  • Flowers Rooftop Restaurant & Bar: One of the newer spots to know, Flowers specializes in North African cuisine prepared over an open flame and offers a fantastic list of natural wines, too. It occupies a beautifully designed rooftop best enjoyed at sunset.
  • Dar Moha: Everyone knows about Yves Saint Laurent’s connections to Marrakech, but this modern Moroccan restaurant is housed in the former riad of fellow fashion pioneer Pierre Balmain.
  • Pétanque Social Club: Come for the food, stay for the scene at this recently renovated and reborn social spot from the 1930s.

Also try:


Discover

nina garcia's insider guide to marrakech

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  • Jardin Majorelle and Musée Yves Saint Laurent: No fashion pilgrimage to Marrakech is complete without visiting the Majorelle gardens and the YSL museum next door. Monsieur Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé bought this garden in 1980, saving it from development, and its extraordinary cobalt blue architecture and lush plantings have become some of the most iconic emblems in the entire city.
  • Le Jardin Secret: Emma describes this as the perfect escape when the souks start to feel overwhelming. Hidden behind an unassuming door in the Medina, this restored 16th-century palace complex contains two very different gardens: one Islamic and geometric, and the other filled with exotic plants from around the world.
  • Farasha Farmhouse: Located 35 minutes outside Marrakech, this chic farmhouse hotel makes an easy day trip when you need a break from the city. Robert recommends booking a day pass: you can spend the afternoon luxuriating by the pool shaded by olive trees, having lunch, and taking advantage of the property’s programming, which includes yoga and live music.
  • MACAAL: Marrakech has become an important destination for contemporary African art, and the Museum of African Contemporary Art Al Maaden is one of the best places to learn more. Emma’s favorite thing to do here is stop for coffee on the rooftop after seeing the collections.

Also try:


Shop

nina garcia's insider guide to marrakech

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  • Marrakshi Life: The designs are new, but the approach is wonderfully old school at this atelier, where the best caftans, dresses, and more are made-to-measure from fabrics woven in-house. It also launched beautiful home products earlier this year.
  • Beni Rugs: Morocco is the land of rugs, and no contemporary studio is doing it better than Beni Rugs right now. Open by appointment.
  • Coup de Soleil: From the French for “sunburn,” this appointment-only store is the favorite of well-dressed locals, including Rosena. It makes the most elegant swimwear, wraps, and accessories.
  • Moro: This concept store is a must-go for fashion, home, fragrance, and all sorts of locally crafted gifts. The organic rose and orange blossom water sprays are a beautiful way to bring home the aromas of Marrakech.
  • Oubaich: Designer Omar Oubaich creates yearly collections that balance Moroccan craftsmanship with a contemporary spin. His modern silhouettes are embellished with intricate embroidery, handmade by women from the Atlas Mountains.
  • Valerie Barkowski: Tucked away in the Medina, this elegant shop specializes in linens for your bedroom and dining room, as well as handcrafted slippers and accessories. It’s one of my favorite places to pick up gifts for others—and myself.
  • Hanout: Marrakech is steeped in tradition, but it’s also home to modern, emerging labels like Hanout, founded by Meriem Nour. Visit the atelier for made-to-measure pieces that channel Marrakech’s 1970s jet-set vibe in a new way.
  • Sana’s Atelier: Is there any Moroccan souvenir more iconic than a kaftan? The creations here—also all handmade by women in the Atlas Mountains—are masterful in their use of color and ornamentation.

Also try:

Want to chat about my Insider Guide to Marrakech? Send me a note at ninagarciainsiderguide@hearst.com. I’ll see you next month. Until then, follow me at @ninagarcia on Instagram for real-time fashion and travel updates—and don’t forget to check out @elleusa too.

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